Lanna hill house, Chiang Mai Thailand

Welcome to Lanna Hill House Inside Track

Inside Track provides reviews of Chiang Mai’s hidden secrets for visitors who don’t want to mingle with hoards of tourists, but want to experience the best of what local people enjoy. The reviews are written by the manager and owner of Lanna Hill House. Where the character of a location would be jeopardized by too many tourists, we do not provide contact details. These will only be shared with guests of Lanna Hill House.

Lanna Hill House Exclusive tours

Lanna Hill House has had the pleasure of hosting over 50 guests groups in the last three years.  The feedback we have received indicates that guests would like private tours that incorporate some of our inside track recommendations.  With this in mind we have created a number of tour itineraries run both in-house and by private tour experts Orient Xplorer.

Tour Number 1: Fair Trade Shopping tour. Our shopping tour can be either for a full or half day. The itinerary will very much depend on the precise requirements of the guests but will only include locally produced goods, with a particular emphasis on products that are made from sustainable sources. The main product categories are silks & fabrics, Ceramics, crafts and carvings, food stuffs and furniture.We recommend the silk village in San Kampaeng  for silk or the Queens project shop, which also sells fabrics which incorporate traditional designs. There are many good ceramic outlets, among them a small village factory in San Sai which specialises in ancient Lanna designs (some can be seen in the house). For crafts the best places are the Northern Village at the airport plaza shopping complex, which also includes a food hall (coffee and tea are specialities) and Ban Tawai craft village. This complex could take a day to cover and you’ll need to search out the high quality products. Bamboo furniture , wood carvings and rattan products are particularly good at this location. In the house there is some mango wood furniture and this can be sourced from a factory shop near San Kampaeng. Furniture may well be too bulky to transport overseas. But if you are interested there is a great export factory shop near Bo Sang. 

Tour Number 2: Doi Mon Larn Mountain tour. Lanna Hill house overlooks one of Thailand’s highest mountains, Doi Mon Larn, which plays host to many attractions - not just the now famous Flight of the Gibbon (which we recommend). The tour starts with guests being picked up at the house after breakfast to begin the ascent up the mountain.  There will be a brief stop for a drink at one of the King’s projects located part way up the mountain. The second stop is Pang Soong lodge, where you can participate in a guided nature trek. There are varying degrees of difficulty and duration, but most walks incorporate waterfalls and scenic jungle pathways.  The forest belongs to the local community who benefit from the tours.  Lunch is taken at the luscious Thanton lodge, where you can dine next to a mountain river. You then climb to the magical village of Maek on Bong at 1,300m where there is a large waterfall and very old wooden temple that can be visited. If you would like to ascend to the stop then this too is an option, but will depend on the type of vehicle being used (it is very steep). There is a walking trail at the top of the mountain. Finally, there is an afternoon drinks stop in a cafe overlooking the valley, before you descend back to the house.

The Northern Village Food Market

You would not normally associate a bustling food market with a covered air conditioned shopping centre, but there is one in Chiang Mai. Located in the Airport Plaza shopping center on the ground floor underneath the Northern Village (one of the best places to find quality souvenirs) is a collection of food stalls where you can enjoy an extremely good value meal (you shouldn’t need to pay more than $1 a head for any one dish) or buy locally produced delicacies, that make great gifts or perfect snacks for picnics and take home meals.

The food stalls cater for early every variety Thai food, including Khao Soy (a Northern curry dish with crispy noodles), every variety of noodle and rice dish you can think of and even Dim Sum. There are also several stalls selling fresh fruit juices, smoothies and desserts such as fried banana.

Designed to replicate an idealized version of a Thai market, I am sure it was originally created for tourists. However, nearly all the customers appear to be local people. Most of the menus are in Thai, but there are English translations available at some of the stalls. If in doubt, just point!

Kanom Krock

On returning from a journey to Nan, my wife asked me to divert to a small village off the main road. She remembered a small shop from 30 years ago when she was a small child that made kanom krock, and wondered if it was still there. It was.

Shaped into small rounded discs (UFO like), and made from the basic ingredients of coconut milk and flour, they do not look overly appetizing at first glance. However, they are delicious. Often laced with various vegetables (e.g. sweet corn and sliced onion leaf) and served piping hot they taste better than any other Thai sweet that I have encountered.

In Chiang Mai it is difficult to find places that sell them. However, there is a stall in the Northern Food Hall (see article) near to the outside entrance that specialises in them. For a mere 15bht for six, you’ll experience a taste out of this world!

The Thai Elephant Conservation Centre

There are many places to see elephants in Chiang Mai. Perhaps the least touristy option is the Thai Elephant Conservation Centre near Lampang. Dedicated to the conservation of the elephant and under royal patronage, the centre comprises an elephant hospital,various conservation projects and even mahout training (there are sometimes one day training courses available). There is some touristy stuff too, like elephant riding and daily shows, but the whole place has a worthy feel to it and generally attracts fewer tourists than other elephant centres that tend to be nearer Chiang Mai.

We arrived late one afternoon, when all the activities had ceased for the day. However, we were able to drive around and feed two baby elephants. The kids were a tad scared but the adults loved it! The whole experience was very informal (we simply paid a worker a few baht for some bamboo to feed them) but very rewarding. If you are staying at Lanna Hill House a great day trip would be to drive over the summit of Doi Mon Larn, through Chae Son national park and then to Lampang, taking in the elephant centre on the way back. It is also worth having a drive around Lampang, as there are many old teak houses to admire and a beatiful old railway station.

The Best Tailor in Northern Thailand?

When you come to Chiang Mai one very good thing to do is to have clothes made. There are numerous Tailors in Chiang Mai who make very big claims and have very smart and fancy shops. The reality is that the only contact they will have you or your clothes is when they measure you for them after that the clothes are normally farmed out to small workshops around the city. However I have had clothes made by almost every Tailor in Chiang Mai and without any doubt whatsoever the best Tailors in Chiang Mai are 2 Chinese Brothers who own Laem Tong. They have been in Business at the same shop which is probably the scruffiest shop in Chiang Mai for more than forty years and they do everything from measuring, cutting and making everything entirely by themselves, all on the premises. The quality of craftsmanship is absolutely superb. We have had Guests who took in an Armani suit which they copied and the Guests told us it is impossible to tell the difference between the quality of tailoring of the Armani and the Laem Tong copy. It is best if you bring something for them to copy. They have a small selection of Classic Material such as wool and cashmere mix. You can get an Armani quality suit made at Laem Tong including the material for about 150 Pounds. It is best to take your time when having a suit made don’t be seduced by Tailors who tell you can have it in 24 hours they generally fall apart very quickly. Laem Tong will give you 2 fittings and it will take about 5 days and you will be very pleasantly stunned by the final product. All of our Guests who have had clothes made at Laem Tong have written in our Guest Book so enthusiastically about these 2 Chinese Brothers. Don’t be fooled by the appearance of the shop what you get will leave you feeling very, very happy.

We also have an excellent seamstress for Ladies clothes in the Village whose name is Pee Pai. She is really excellent but she has a very small stock of material so it is best for women who would like to have clothes made that you either bring your own material or you can buy beautiful Silk in Chiang Mai.

A train journey from yesteryear

In many countries the romance of train journeys has been lost. They’re expensive and the experience can be somewhat sanitized. Not so in Thailand. The trains are rickety, a little slow and you can even open the windows. Everyone seems to be having fun and even if your kids are screaming no-one will hear them, as the din is just too loud! What is more, a ticket from Chiang Mai to Lampang is a mere 30 bht (50p, $1).

This will not be everybody’s cup of tea, especially when holiday time is so valuable. However, I would almost guarantee children will love it. It is more Thomas the Tank Engine than British Rail. There are 6 or 7 stops on route to Lampang (a 2 hour journey), all of which would not look out of place on the island of Sodor (Thomas the Tank Engines home). It passes through Doi Khun Tan national park where you can alight. The scenery here is spectacular, with a tunnel and two viaducts helping to traverse the hilly landscape. There are vendors on the train selling cold drinks, snacks, fresh fruit and various local delicacies.

If two hours is too long, and you don’t want to arrange for a lift back from Lampang, then you can stop in Lamphun. This is a pretty little town with lots of ancient temples and hardly any tourists. There is even an excellent play ground for kids near to the moat built by a local politician.

Coffee Shop on top of a mountain

Christmas day 2006. We decided to load up the car with a few goodies for disadvantaged hill tribe kids and embark on a good deed run. We targeted the Hmong village at the summit of Doi Suthep. As we neared the top the covered road became dirt track and we wondered if we would ever find the village. Then we approached a magical scene: A coffee shop perched on the side of the mountain, overlooking a plantation and Chiang Mai. The skies were blue and it was a very cool 15c.

The coffee was fresh from the fields and the staff were Hmong, adorned in traditional dress and beaming with smiles. It was so cool, that we vied for space in the sunshine. If there was ever a perfect place to sip coffee and let the world go by, this was it.

To find the coffee shop, take the road to the top of Doi Suthep and head for the second Hmong village. Once you hit the dirt track, you can’t miss it.

Flying through the tree tops

Flight of the Gibbon is one of Chiang Mai’s newest and best eco-tour destinations. Once more it is a mere 30 minute drive from Lanna Hill House.

Located in pristine rain forest near to the magical village of Mae Kompong at around 1,300m above sea level, guests have the opportunity to fly between trees on a zip line. The total journey is about 2km and can take a couple of hours as you have to “unbuckle” between each tree top station, traverse bridges and ab sail between different levels.

It is well worth the 2,200 bht per head (which includes a meal and waterfall tour), but don’t expect to see too much wildlife (there are certainly no gibbons to be seen). It is a lot of fun, there is a lot of focus on safety and some of the lines can be outright thrilling. The ancient forest around here is truly beautiful and ever green all year round. I doubt you will see better forest anywhere around Chiang Mai.

Bookings can be made by the manager at Lanna Hill House.

Khun Churn vegetarian restuarant

“Churn” means welcome in Thai. This is always a guarantee at this extremely imaginative and popular restaurant in Chiang Mai. Although vegetarian, meat eaters certainly should not be put off. There are a wide range of extremely tasty dishes incorporating traditional Thai herbs and spices, to suit all palettes.

The restaurant is located off Nimmenhamind road, down Soy 17. There is a large covered garden area, or if it’s too hot (or cold) there is an air conditioned room. Lunch comprises a buffet of salads, various noodle dishes and a wide selection of curries, which are mainly translations of the meat version into delicious vegetarian ones. Meat substitutes include mushrooms, tofu and soy. The buffet includes healthy drinks such as lemon grass flavoured water. Expect to pay just over $2 or £1 to eat as much as you like.

The dinner menu is a la carte, and includes many of the dishes that are served at lunch. The curries are particulary delicious and are all served with a choice of salad, fresh vegetables and brown rice. Pricing is similar to lunch.

The owners both speak good English and would be delighted to know if you are staying at Lanna Hill House.